WHAT IS A GROUND FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTER?

These are receptacles that typically have the black and red test buttons on them (pictured above). GFCIs are found in outlets and service panels. They monitor the flow of current to and from appliances. If there's an imbalance in the flow, because of a frayed wire, a ground fault or a faulty device, current may attempt to travel through you, but the GFCI will quickly cut power to prevent any serious injury. Unless you have an outlet with a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI), you may be seriously shocked or burned because you may be the shortest route to the ground. Although they prevent electrocution, there is still a risk of electric shock.

GFCI Receptacles (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) - Safety Receptacles

They are required (by code) in many areas where electricity and water may come into contact. These areas include bathrooms, kitchen receptacles for countertop use within 6 feet of any sink, basements, pools, spas, laundry and utility rooms, garages and all receptacles located on the exterior of the home. At least one GFCI outlet is required in an unfinished basement.

There are GFCI outlets and GFCI-protected outlets which are outlets that are "downstream" of GFCI outlets, meaning that they are on the same circuit as a GFCI outlet, but do not have the red and black buttons on them. If there is no electricity to a GFCI-protected outlet, the GFCI outlet (at a separate location) might have tripped and disconnected electricity to this particular circuit. The reset button must be pressed in order to restore electricity to any downstream outlets.

You should test the GFCI outlets as soon as you move in, noting at the same time any protected outlets that may be present and which GFCI outlets control those protected outlets; typically the protected outlets should be labeled as such. Although they are proven life-saving devices, they are known to fail on a regular basis and should be tested monthly to ensure that they are functioning properly. DEFECTIVE GFCI's can become deadly.

To test the GFCI outlet, first plug a nightlight or lamp into the outlet. Turn the light on, and then press the "TEST" button on the GFCI outlet. The GFCI outlet's "RESET" button should pop out, and the light should go out. If the GFCI outlet is functioning properly, meaning that the light does go out, press the "RESET" button to restore power to the outlet. If the "RESET" button pops out but the light does not go out, either the GFCI outlet is not working properly or it is incorrectly wired. Call a qualified electrician to evaluate the problem. Usually the kitchen GFCI outlet will control any other outlets in the kitchen (sometimes more than one GFCI outlet is present in the kitchen). Sometimes all the bathroom outlets are placed on the same circuit, with only one GFCI outlet protecting the outlets in all the bathrooms. Occasionally a GFCI outlet in the garage will protect outlets in various bathrooms. Such garage installations can be inconvenient, particularly in multi-story buildings.

If GFCI outlets trip regularly, consult a qualified electrician immediately to determine why the tripping is occurring. GFCI outlets trip quite often when hair dryers are used on the circuit due to the electricity surge typically needed to start the dryer. If you notice this happening, try starting the dryer on the lowest setting and then moving up to the higher setting after a few seconds. If your circuit continues to trip, consult a qualified electrician for further evaluation.

There are many home Buyers out there (today) that do not know how to maintain their heating system. I'd like to explain the procedures here at ActiveRain so that Realtors can supply this information or this link to their Home Buyer clients. I'd like to see homeowners become fully aware of what a heating system requires in order to keep their expensive heating system functional for many years to come.

TYPES OF HEATING

Depending upon where you live and how your house was built, your home may have any of several different types of climate systems that help you to enjoy your interior spaces year-round. Forced-air Furnaces, Forced-hot water Boilers and Steam Boilers (fueled by gas or oil) are very common types of heating here in Massachusetts. Other types of heating systems that I see (but are not so common in Massachusetts) are radiant floors or ceilings, Electric baseboards, Heat Pumps and Wood and Pellot burning stoves.

Furnaces, Boilers, Electric baseboards, Heat Pumps and radiant heating systems can be unique in their operation and maintenance. My examination of your heating and cooling systems is mechanically limited since the units are not dismantled to examine the interior components. All heating and cooling appliances, including electric baseboards and radiant heating systems are tested by operating the thermostat or controls as a user would normally operate them on a daily basis. Gas shutoff valves are absolutely not tested.

Your heating equipment should be inspected and serviced on an annual basis. Before close of escrow, I highly recommend obtaining from the Seller any documents concerning regular maintenance and service and a safety check by public utility, or a complete system evaluation by a qualified heating specialist, particularly if heating components cannot be proven to have been inspected within the past twelve months. Utility companies will typically, but not always, provide a free safety check of all gas-using appliances.

FORCED AIR SYSTEMS (Hot and Cool)

In a forced Hot air heating system, the heat exchanger in a furnace is warmed by the burning fuel that is below it. A blower fan circulates the air from inside the home over the warm heat exchanger. This warmed air is then circulated throughout the home. This process heats the home through the floor, wall or ceiling registers.

In some homes, the forced hot air heating ducts are also used for Central air conditioning, which is an electric powered split-system. The two prime components of the system include the compressor unit and the evaporator unit. (Notice: The outside compressor unit has an average twelve to fifteen year service life with proper maintenance.) The heaviest, noisiest, heat-shedding components--the compressor and condenser coil, are installed outdoors, while the evaporator coil is installed indoors, usually in the form of an A-frame in the plenum of the forced-air furnace. In this case, the furnace's blower moves the interior warm air over the coils and distributes it into a chilled air. Two refrigerant lines run between the compressor and evaporator. The larger line (vapor line) should always be insulated to maintain temperature and prevent it from sweating. A condensate drain line runs from the indoor evaporator to a drainage point. This drain line may be connected to a device called a condensate pump if the installation elevation requires pumping the condensate up to an outside draining area.

The central air conditioning system shares the same duct distribution system and blower unit filter as the heating furnace in order to deliver cool conditioned air to the habitable rooms serviced by the system. One of the most important things you can do to maintain your forced air furnace and keep it running smoothly and efficiently is change your air filters on a regular basis. Once every three or four months is about right and it will prolong the life of your Furnace and improve the quality of your indoor air as a result. As you install the new air filter, make sure to have the arrows pointing in the direction of the air flow. Just remember, the air flows into the return duct towards the blower compartment. Disposable filters are recommended, but you may utilize a washable one made of steel or soft mesh. At the start of each heating season, open the blower compartment of your heater and make a visual inspection. Gently scrape the dust and grime off the blower blades with a screwdriver or putty knife. Most modern blower motors are sealed and self-lubricating. But if you have an older system, the motor may have an oil reservoir. If so, you should fill it at the start of the heating season.

If you have a gas furnace, a professional tuning and cleaning every two years is a good idea. Electric furnaces should be professionally inspected every two years and for oil furnaces; it's a good idea to schedule a tuning every year. If you have an older furnace (15 years or more), I highly recommend that you request your HVAC technician to literally inspect the Heat Exchanger for any cracks, holes or leaks, as my furnace inspection is mechanically limited since the furnace compartments require dismantling to examine this particular area. A Heat Exchanger inspection is vital because a deteriorated heat exchanger could allow deadly products of combustion into your living area.

BOILER SYSTEMS (Forced Hot Water)

For a Boiler, water is heated, usually to between 160 and 180 degrees Fahrenheit. Pumps circulate this hot water through the pipes in the building. This heated water warms the radiators or baseboards that are installed in the rooms. These radiators and baseboards, in turn, warm the air in the room. Boiler systems need regular maintenance to keep them operating efficiently. There is a danger of scalding or steam burns when working around a boiler system, so any maintenance to the boiler should be left to the licensed plumbing professionals.

I recommend that you have your boiler serviced annually to maintain proper efficiency. Some older circulating pumps require periodic oiling at the 3 small ports on top of the pump itself. If your boiler is equipped with these older pumps, verify that your plumber is oiling these ports. Routine annual inspection and cleaning by a qualified, licensed Plumber will keep your hot-water system running for many years to come without trouble.

A dirty, inefficient boiler will cost you far more than the service call. The serviceman catches little problems before they become big trouble. And a neglected system fails years sooner than a well-maintained one. Annual service keeps the system running properly and heads off most problems. You should also keep an eye on the system to make sure that all is well between inspections.

BOILER SYSTEMS (Steam)

Steam heat is an older style heating system, typically installed in buildings constructed before the 1950s. Water is heated in a boiler in a similar manner but does not utilize any circulating water. The boiling water is heated until it becomes steam. Steam, which is a gas, rises through the heat pipes and into the cast iron radiators. The rising steam causes these radiators to become hot. These radiators warm the air in a building.

Most steam boilers need water added every few days during the cold weather periods of winter. Some steam boilers have automatic water fill valves that will automatically add water when the water level becomes too low. If your boiler fails to start when the thermostat is calling for heat, it could be the result of the low water cut-off valve shutting the system down due to an insufficient water level. Check the glass tube on the side of the boiler. Make sure that there is a sufficient water level. If not, add water to boiler until the glass tube water level reaches 3/4 from the top. Never overfill this glass tube as water will start exiting from air vents and radiators. What a mess this will turn out to be.

Your Steam boiler will also need a weekly draining to keep sediment from building up inside and potentially blocking or clogging the interior components and valves. I recommend draining approximately 2 gallons or until the exiting water begins to clear up.

RADIATORS

Radiators usually aren't the most attractive element in the room, so most people try to disguise or hide them. But this can significantly reduce the amount of heat that reaches the room. Air needs to circulate underneath the radiator, so avoid pushing furniture up against the radiator or covering it with draperies. If you like to have a shelf or cabinet around your radiator, make it easy to remove during the heating season. If you paint your radiator, be sure to use the right type of paint - choose one that's made specifically for "high-heat" applications. Otherwise it may crack or peel within a few days. Keep in mind that multiple layers of paint can also cut down on the amount of heat that reaches the room.

There is an easy way to improve the efficiency of your radiators - just add a reflecting panel behind it. You can purchase them at a home center or hardware store, or you can fashion your own with a piece of plywood or paneling and place smooth sheets of aluminum foil onto this material. If you feel that a certain radiator makes a room too hot, you can shut it down completely by turning the control knob on the lower end of the radiator or just turn the bleed valve that is located on the upper side (if equipped) in order to lower the temperature itself.

HEAT PUMPS

Essentially, a heat pump is an air-conditioner working in reverse. In the summer, a heat pump functions like a normal air-conditioner when the temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit. (Use of A/C mode at colder outside temperatures could damage your compressor). In the cooler months, the heat pump will be operated in a reverse mode.

In this reverse mode, the heat pump heats a building by extracting the available heat energy from the outside air or underground water. Heat pumps are most effective at saving energy when in the heating mode. The problem with an air-source heat pump in a cold climate, however, is that your household needs more heat as the temperature outside goes down-- but the heat pump works less efficiently at lower outdoor temperatures. Below a temperature known as the "balance point," normally from 30 to 45 degrees F, supplementary heat is required and that means that expensive electrical-resistance heating now kicks in. In this particular mode, the heat pump can be quite expensive to operate.

Heat-pump performance will deteriorate without regular maintenance and service. The difference between the energy consumption of a well-maintained heat pump and a severely neglected one ranges from 10 to 25 percent. Always make sure you turn the power on at least 24 hours before using A/C or the Heat pump. Never cycle quickly between the two operating modes as this could damage your system.

REGULAR MAINTENANCE

Either the homeowner or service technician can perform the following routine maintenance tasks:

-Clean or replace filters regularly (every 2 to 3 months, depending on operating time and amount of dust in the environment).

-Clean the outdoor Condenser coils as often as necessary (when dirt build-up is visible on the outside of the coil). Also, remove all plant life and debris from around the outdoor Condenser.

-Clean evaporator coil and condensate pan (located above the heat exchanger area) every 2 to 4 years.

-Clean the blower's fan blades (located in the lower plenum).

-Clean every supply and return register and straighten out their fins.

PROFESSIONAL MAINTENANCE

You should have a professional HVAC technician service your heat pump every year. The technician should be:

-Inspecting ducts, filters, blower, and indoor coil for dirt build-up and other obstructions.

-Diagnose and seal any duct leakage.

-Verify adequate airflow by measurement.

-Verify correct refrigerant charge by measurement.

-Check for any refrigerant leaks.

-Inspect electric terminals, and if necessary, clean and tighten connections, and apply a nonconductive coating.

-Lubricate motors, and inspect belts for tightness and wear.

-Verify correct electric control, making sure that heating is locked out when the thermostat calls for cooling and vice versa.

-Verify correct thermostat operation.

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE

Motorized equipment, like your heating system, requires regular adjustments, burner cleaning, parts replacement, repairs, venting inspection, and other checks. Licensed experts know your equipment and the necessary codes to follow. Your heating contractor can help make your equipment operate with peak efficiency, last longer, and save you money year after year. Having an annual service plan in place will also guarantee you an on-call, 24 hour a day service technician to arrive at your house in case of a heating emergency.

HEARTH APPLIANCES

Some homes have wood-burning stoves, pellot-burning stoves, or fireplaces. While a stove or fireplace can warm a building, it cannot be counted on to provide continuous heat. All of these systems require that the fuel be replenished on an ongoing basis. While this may suit a quiet getaway weekend in the Massachusetts country, it is seldom a match with modern lifestyles. Only depend upon a wood-burning stove, pellot-burning stove, or fireplace as a supplemental source of heat.

It is best to burn only seasoned wood for maximum heat release, less creosote buildup, and economy. Avoid burning green (unseasoned) wood which may contain up to 50% of its weight in moisture and needs to be burned off before any heat can reach your house.

Stovepipes and chimney flues should be inspected by a chimney professional each year before you use your stove. They should check for all signs of deterioration such as cracked flue liners, leaks, warping, baffle gaps, broken or missing bricks, heavy creosote deposits, bird nests and other foreign material. Thoroughly clean the flue and stovepipe of any soot and other residues. The stovepipe and chimney should be inspected frequently during the heating season for creosote buildup. If you use an air-tight stove, check the stovepipe at least once a month. Your chimney cleaning schedule will depend on how frequently your stove is used and how it is operated.

Lead - What is it?

Lead has been mined, smelted, and compounded for thousands of years. Lead is a neurotoxin metallic element that was historically used in paint, gasoline and plumbing materials for many years. Lead was easy to work with for a variety of purposes, which is why mining and smelting of lead has caused millions of tons to be spread into our environment. Lead poisoning occurs only when too much lead accumulates in the body.

Generally, lead poisoning occurs slowly, resulting from the gradual accumulation of lead in bone and tissue after repeated exposure. However, it is important to note that young children absorb 50% of a lead ingestion while adults absorb only 10%. Pregnant women should be especially cautious of lead exposure. The presence of lead dust can cause difficulties during pregnancy. Lead enters the bloodstream and can pass the placental barrier from the mother to the unborn child. The fetus can then be poisoned before birth.

Lead is very dangerous for children under the age of six because it is absorbed more readily into their blood and stored more easily in their bones and internal organs. Lead can be absorbed by the body, primarily through the lungs and stomach. If a child is overexposed to lead it can cause disastrous consequences including the possibility of irreversible brain and nervous system damage. Lead poisoned infants, children, and fetuses can suffer from permanent learning disabilities, behavioral problems, hearing problems, developmental delays, reduced hand-eye coordination and other serious health conditions. Even children who appear healthy can have lead poisoning. If you think your child or other family members may be at risk, contact your physician or local health department for testing, immediately.

WHERE CAN LEAD BE FOUND?

DRINKING WATER - is a potential source of lead. This is usually from lead in solder, fixtures and lead piping in the home. Some water pipes in homes built before the 1930's were made of lead, especially the main water pipe that penetrates the foundation. In both old and new homes, lead solder was also used in copper piping. Both of these can be a source of lead in your drinking water. I will be inspecting all visible piping within the building and any lead piping that is found, will absolutely be noted and highlighted in the PLUMBING section of your inspection report.

A variety of lead pipes

HOUSE PAINTS - Most houses built prior to World War II had lead-based paint applied to the interior or exterior surfaces. It was used until 1978, when it was banned. Some of these paints still remain inside older homes and may be particularly hazardous if in poor condition (chipped or peeling) or if disturbed by sanding or abrasion (creating lead dust).

Lead was used in paint because it lasted forever in the environment and never broke down into a harmless substance. The amount of lead in paint was reduced in 1950 and further reduced again in 1978. Houses built before 1950 are very likely to contain lead paint while houses built after 1950 will have less lead in the paint. House paints sold today have very low levels of lead.

Lead paint that needs immediate attention

Lead dust is released from chipping and peeling paint; home renovation projects that disturb lead paint; and lead paint ground up by friction, such as on window sashes, porch floors, etc. Because children naturally engage in hand-to-mouth activities, they are more likely to accidentally ingest lead.Over many years, painted surfaces usually crumble into household dust. This dust clings to toys, fingers and other objects that children normally put into their mouths. This is the most common way lead gets into your child's system.

Children also get dangerous lead levels into their bodies by chewing on lead painted surfaces. Some young children even eat paint chips that are peeling or chipping. The taste is what makes them come back for more. Believe it or not, Lead paint taste sweet, so children and pets are attracted to the taste of lead paint. In accordance with Massachusetts law, any unit or single family home with an occupant who is less than six years old must be deleaded.

TESTING FOR LEAD PAINT

To determine the presence of lead in paint, dust, water, and soil is best done by trained professionals. Massachusetts requires all lead inspectors to be state-certified.

Professional testing companies use three basic methods to measure lead in paint:

1) X-ray fluorescence (XRF) uses portable detectors that X-ray a painted surface to measure the amount of lead in all the layers of paint. This type of testing is done in the home and disturbs little, if any, paint.

2)Laboratory testing of paint samples involves removing samples of paint from each surface to be tested, usually from an area of about two square inches. Samples are sent to laboratories for analysis. This method leaves a bare spot on each surface tested.

3)Spot checks are performed with swabs. Swabs do not tell you how much lead is present and their reliability at detecting low levels of lead has not been determined. Professional testing for lead in paint is highly recommended. If you are seeking a professional lead inspection in order to obtain a Certificate stating that a specific home is free of Lead paint, I do not issue lead Certificates. You must contact a Lead Abatement company from your area.

Infrared electrical inspections are completely safe, fast, and very reliable. These inspections are non contact and can be performed at any time of the day without disturbing the occupants or shutting down the electrical supply to your home.

Nearly everything that transmits electricity will get very hot before it finally fails. A cost effective power management is critical to maintaining the reliability of the electrical system throughout your home before it causes a fire. A deficient connection between electrical components can result in resistance which will manifest in an apparent temperature elevation when compared to similar types of connections under similar load conditions. Electrical hot spots can be identified in many areas throughout your home, which include faulty wiring, overloads at electrical connections and components throughout your home, overloaded or undersized circuits, defective circuit breakers that are in need of immediate replacement, hot branch wiring, defective wall switches and outlets, as well as any loose overheating connections, especially with any aluminum wiring connections.

I will safely scan all electrical equipment in and around your home, looking for thermal patterns that indicate a heating anomaly. Most of your electrical connections will always appear as "Hot" areas, but the more severe heating anomalies will be detected with infrared imaging and this fire issue will be brought to your attention immediately. I will then prepare a detailed infrared electrical report that will include both thermal and digital images in a side by side comparison format. Your report will detail the absolute temperature measurements along with outlining the severity of the anomaly and will include recommendations to have any dangerous situations corrected.

An undetected electrical weakness in your home can lead to deadly house fires and a catastrophic failure of your electrical system. For the safety of you and your family, I recommend you have your entire electrical system thermally scanned on an annual basis.

This panel is absolutely fine, but the IR image (on the right) is detecting 3 hot spots. Only an experienced Thermographer will be able to properly interpret those three hot spots as normal temperatures for AFCI breakers.

Now...we've got issues

One very important finding with thermal imaging would be wood boring insect infestations. It's crucial in locating any hidden Termite or Carpenter Ant damage much sooner than later. Colonies can become so catastrophic and cause expensive structural damage to your home without you even knowing it. A small termite colony can form and cause extensive damage to a building in as little as six weeks, so vigilance plays an important role in preventing these types of infestations.

When Termites or Carpenter Ants do invade buildings, the normal heat patterns of concealed structural members (inside walls and floors) are changed causing the damaged areas to be detected with infrared. Basically, the density of the wood changes due to the wood members being destroyed. The damaged wood members will emit a slightly different temperature than the solid wood members. This difference in temperature is quite obvious and visible to the trained eye with thermal imaging.

My thermal imaging camera records this change in heat patterns and will indicate the exact location of the Wood Boring Insect infestation (See images below). The color image will show hot spots as red or yellow and cold spots as blue or purple and these heat patterns can indicate Wood Boring Insect infestations if interpreted correctly. My technology allows for early detection of a termite problem, and eradication could proceed before the damage is too great, thus saving the owner thousands of dollars in repairs at some future date.

Visually, this wall looks great, but infrared detects Termite Activity.

Existing homeowners can also use my thermal imaging services so that they are not over-charged by exterminators who do not accurately identify the Termite or Carpenter Ant problems for subsequent treatment. There are instances where the concealed Wood Boring Insect damage is minor but the exterminator is telling you the opposite or is simply guessing. Infrared imaging can verify the extent of the insect damage.

You may be wondering, "How can a camera detect concealed termite colonies"? Well, let's take Termites for example. When termites do invade buildings, their presence alters the normal heat patterns of the floors and walls. Termites are cold-blooded creatures, but their metabolic processes will produce heat. Termites also work to control their thermal environment by building moist mud tunnels, which appear as cool spots in the wall cavities. These cool spots and any structural damage are quite visible during a typical thermal scan. Thermal imaging is an environmentally friendly, limited chemical and radiation option. Using very specific information about the pests' location, I am able to determine the most effective location for placing the fumigation chemicals. This protects the homeowner and the environment. After the initial fumigation is completed, thermal imaging can be used again to follow-up on eradication efforts, and help to ensure that termite infestation is nothing but a bad memory.

My inspection results will be captured and then documented into a professional report, providing you with tangible proof of all my wood boring insect findings.

http://www.massinfrared.com

Radiant heating systems are installed in many floors and ceilings of homes and businesses throughout Massachusetts. The continuous supply pipes for these systems are not visible and are unable to be monitored (on a continuing basis) in order to ensure that the piping is always functioning properly and not leaking. Something as important as (concealed) radiant heating should always be monitored on an annual basis. An unknown radiant heating system leak can waste energy and cause major property damage if not repaired in a timely manner. Locating the exact area of a leaking hot water pipe which is buried under a concrete slab can be quite time consuming. It can take quite the physical process of tearing up or breaking up big areas of the flooring in order to locate the leak site. If the location of a leak is not found quickly and accurately, floors can often wind up becoming severely damaged and very costly to repair. I'm finding that many of the older style steel and copper floor pipes are now failing and causing serious damage to structures without anyone even knowing about this concealed defect until the moisture issue becomes quite obvious or until I show up with my infrared camera.

I will always have a convenient and very simple solution for locating and monitoring all those hidden radiant heating pipes. My infrared (thermal imaging) camera detects differentiating thermal patterns of buried heating pipes which enables me to pinpoint the exact piping locations and monitor for concealed leaks under any floor or ceiling material. My infrared imaging camera is so sensitive that I'm able to map out an entire radiant heat system (no matter what size it is; revealing where all the tubing is located within your floor or ceiling. Not only am I able to locate the piping, I'm also able to detect the temperature of the tubing itself, and locate any hidden leaks that may be yet undetected.

If you plan on renovating or remodeling on top of or in proximity of a radiant heating system, I highly recommend having your radiant piping completely examined and have all the buried pipes clearly marked out before you undertake any construction work. Without knowing where those radiant pipes are located, construction around a radiant area could become very expensive if one of those pipes all of the sudden becomes punctured.

I've had many radiant inspections where I've detected irregular patterns in the embedded radiant lines with improper spacing between the pipes themselves (See image below). These particular pipes were not properly secured in place while the mortar was being poured over them, which caused them to be pushed out of position, permanently. It's always nice to know exactly where those radiant pipes are laid and if they are all spaced out in a straight sequence. There are also instances where radiant heat coils can be close enough to some surfaces that you could end up driving a drill bit or hardware right through one of those pipes. That would cause you down time and exorbitant expenses by having the system shut down and then paying contractors to jack hammer a good portion of the floor in order to access and repair the leak that would have never happened in the first place if you hired me to map the entire radiant heating system.

NOTE THE IMPERFECTIONS IN THIS RADIANT PIPING

Have your radiant heating pipes marked out today. Visit my website at http://www.massinfrared.com

Moisture is the leading cause of costly building upgrades today. Scanning interior surfaces of your building can reveal excess moisture due to roof leaks, plumbing leaks, moisture entering your building at wall penetrations, leaks around windows and doors, locating hidden dampness under resilient flooring, and many other susceptible areas throughout your home.

Moisture on most building materials can easily destroy the structural integrity of a building and nurture Mold within days. The first step in any moisture problem remediation is to quickly and accurately locate and remove all sources of moisture in order to prevent wood rot and Mold. I'll be able to instantly detect the ultimate source and exact location of any moisture entry area with little or no physical dis-assembly of the premises and minimal disturbance of anyone living in the home. This prevents building owners from ripping out entire walls and ceilings in order to pinpoint a problem area or to repair a leak somewhere inside the surface.

    THIS IS WHAT YOU SEE                      I SEE A WET CEILING AND WALL

The moist areas of building materials cool when energy is transferred during the water evaporation process; therefore (during a thermal scan), a wet "cooler" area will stand out from the surrounding dry "warmer" surfaces. If I do locate moist areas in your home, I will be taking both digital and thermal pictures of these areas of concern in order to include these findings into your infrared report. Specified sections of wall or ceiling coverings can then be removed in order to perform the repairs that caused the moisture build-up. I will be alleviating the need to remove large sections due to pinpointing the exact location of the moisture build-up. Once the coverings are removed and the source of the leak has been properly repaired and all wet materials have been removed from the building, corrective measures must be taken for drying out the area before any materials can be re-applied. I am able to monitor the drying process for you, and confirm when your building's damaged area is completely dry (Mold-free) and ready for re-construction. Then your building contractors will be able start installing your finished areas to your specifications.

My infrared camera does not detect the actual Molds behind your walls and ceilings, but will detect the issues associated with Mold build-up. When basement walls are covered by finish materials, thermal imaging can give you a definitive answer as to whether or not there are moisture issues behind these materials. An infrared camera is basically an on-board computer and a display screen that will show me the thermal images and temperatures that quickly identify the moist, cold or warm areas where molds are likely to be growing. Once I successfully locate an affected area, an invasive inspection at that exact location is then recommended. Required corrective actions are now able to be taken immediately, in order to alleviate extensive damage and any Mold accumulation.

You can also hire me for Moisture contamination evaluations after a severe flood, broken water lines, and equipment failure or even before acquiring real estate suspected of having hidden moisture damage. (Hint: Don't believe the story about the house that has musty odors because it has been vacant and closed up for a while. Musty odors are caused by moisture.)

There are a host of applications for infrared cameras and there are many issues (throughout the average building) that can be easily detected through infrared imaging.

I'd like to post the many applications (one post at a time) that infrared imaging can be utilized in and then answer any questions you may have regarding these thermal imaging applications.

The first and most widely used application is... Energy Efficiency Inspections.

I know everyone works very hard for their money in order to pay the bills, but what you don't realize is how much of your hard earned energy dollars are actually slipping right through the cracks of your home. Keeping your home at a comfort level (by conditioning it) can be very costly. Wouldn't you like to reduce your energy bills in our freezing winter months and then again, in the summer cooling months? I'm sure your answer is "Yes". Well, a good place to start would be a professional infrared home-energy efficiency inspection. My infrared inspection can tell you where you are wasting your hard earned energy dollars, and then show you exactly where your costly energy dollars are being wasted.

There are many building envelope anomalies that can generate significant heat and air conditioning loss, which causes your energy dollars to be wasted in a not-so-tight home.

Sources of Air Leakage in a Typical Home

During a Re-hab, infrared imaging detects missing insulation above ceiling

My infrared camera allows me to perform a comprehensive energy efficiency inspection within your home and locating and pin-pointing those areas where unconditioned air is infiltrating your home. Most air infiltration areas are located at wall penetrations (such as windows, doors, vents, etc), and at transition areas of fully insulated walls, ceilings and floors. My thermal scan will identify the smallest of insulation breaches and fissures within the concealed cavities of your walls and ceilings. I will literally show you where you are wasting your precious energy resources and your hard earned dollars. My IR camera enables me to point out exactly where your costly energy dollars are being lost. I will then assist you in determining how to properly insulate those breached areas with minimum damage to your surfaces, so you can get the most out of your heating and cooling systems for many years to come.

An infrared home energy efficiency inspection can be used to verify problems caused by poor design, poor workmanship, or material failure. With the ridiculously high priced heating fuel today, my energy audit can pay for itself in as little as one year. This is the ideal inspection to conduct for numerous situations in a typical home...

1) Use my infrared services while I'm performing your Standard home inspection. This valuable option is not included in my standard home inspection fee.

2) You can hire me immediately after completion of your newly constructed home while the home or building is still under warranty with the building contractor. I can also scan your new home on construction stage inspections. (In many cases, those moisture stains on your basement walls are explained away by the builder as "during construction" moisture. It pays to confirm this before the builder's warranty expires.)

3) If you own an older home that is costing you too much in energy dollars due to excessive air drafts, I can pinpoint those problem areas where cold air is infiltrating your living space. Then, it's best if you contact a building contractor to upgrade those specific areas that I will be clearly identifying throughout your home. All efficiency information and pictures will be transferred onto a professional thermal report for your convenience.

4) An infrared energy inspection will easily locate any missing insulation behind your finished walls and ceilings. Then, you can contact an insulation contractor to upgrade the areas that I will be identifying throughout your home. These areas will also be clearly identified on a professional energy efficiency report. During this inspection, I can show you how you can insulate specific areas without removing walls or ceilings.

5) I am able to detect potential mold problems behind walls and ceilings. All moisture issues must be mitigated immediately. As I stated previously, infrared imaging does not detect the actual Molds behind your walls and ceilings, but it will detect the issues associated with Mold build-up.

6) Infrared Thermography provides you with a unique opportunity to assess the energy efficiency of your HVAC (heating, ventilating, and air conditioning) systems, including the tightness of the ductwork that is located behind your walls and ceilings. In order to prevent deadly carbon monoxide poisoning, this inspection will also test for leaks throughout the vent pipes.

7) An infrared camera will locate those thermal panes that are at the beginning stages of leaking insulated gases. I am able to locate any broken seals in double/triple pane windows that do not visually show signs of condensation as of yet.

As you can see, having an infrared energy efficiency inspection makes it much easier to positively pinpoint problems throughout your home, instead of simply making an educated guess without the camera. This IR inspection also allows me to communicate my findings with greater understanding to you (the homeowner) instead of just "speaking another language." As one client had put it very clearly, "This inspection lets my eyes make sense of what my ears are hearing." Now that makes perfect sense, Right?

The dark blue areas indicate that there is "No Insulation" in this area

Thermal imaging pictures combined with digital photographs can greatly enhance your understanding of just what the problem is and how to go about having it repaired with minimum damage to the home. My final energy efficiency report will enhance your ability to deal directly with the contractors that may be performing the repair work for you. All you have to do is show your contractor the infrared energy efficiency report and they will fully understand your issues. After your contractor completes their upgrade, and before you make any final payment, you can then contact me to perform a final scan to verify that all work was performed correctly.

Looks great visually, until I detect insulation defects with thermal imaging

Even though the real estate market has slowed down quite a bit (compared to three years ago), Home Inspectors are getting more requests for infrared imaging than ever before. There are many home owners that are not familiar with IR inspections and I'd like to explain what infrared imaging is.

Now, there is so much information regarding this spectacular technology that I'm going to break this down into sections in order for you to fully understand infrared technology, and its uses and applications. Thermal imaging (IR) is highly advanced technology that was originally developed by our high tech military for use in enhancing night vision in advanced weapons systems during the Korean War. It was used extensively by our ground forces for general theatre scanning, target acquisition and sighting enemy objects in the midst of darkness. This truly amazing camera technology is so astonishing, that it is slowly migrating into the residential and commercial inspection field. Thermal Imaging is quite possibly, the most important technology to be utilized in the Residential and Commercial inspection profession today.

In the hands of Certified, Trained and Experienced Thermographers (such as myself), an infrared camera allows me to detect hidden issues behind finished surfaces of any building by evaluating the camera's images and temperature readings. Thermography is basically the use of an infrared imaging and measurement camera that can actually "see" and "measure" thermal energy emitted from an object. The camera can only sense the temperature difference that transfers to the most outer surface of a wall, ceiling or floor (and if the Delta T, or temperature difference, cannot conduct this difference to the outer most surface then I am unable to see it clearly with an infrared camera). So it's crucial to have a temperature difference of at least ten degrees Fahrenheit between inside and outside temperatures. Most materials that are moist or located inside inaccessible surfaces will have an absolute temperature difference in a seasonal situation due to conditioning the living areas with heat in the winter and A/C in the summer. In New England's ever-changing weather, the inside and outside temperatures will contain sufficient differential most of the time. If the A/C or heat is not conditioning the home, and the outside temperature is the same as the inside temperature, then the infrared camera can not perform its intended function. Temperature differential is absolutely necessary for me to better interpret the camera images and its indicators.

Now that you understand what Thermography is, I'm going to be more explicit as to "How this technology actually works". Thermal, or infrared energy, is light that is not visible because its wavelength is too long to be detected by the human eye; it's the part of the electromagnetic spectrum that we perceive as heat. Unlike visible light (in the infrared world) everything with a temperature above absolute zero will always emit heat. Even very cold objects (such as ice cubes), will emit infrared images. The higher the object's temperature, the greater the infrared (IR) radiation emitted. By detecting those differentiating thermal patterns that are invisible to the naked eye, I'm able to point out concealed issues that need attention now. These findings enable homeowners to perform repairs in a predictive fashion rather than in a reactive manner, which is going to be far more expensive and time consuming when these invisible issues finally become apparent. Everything from faulty wiring whether it is in the wall or exposed, to the presence of concealed Termites, or concealed wet insulation and Mold build-up will affect the surrounding temperature of a surface. Heat-sensitive photography (IR) can reveal these and many other serious issues that cannot be seen by the naked eye or with conventional or digital photography.

My infrared camera enables me to detect extremely small but crucial heat patterns from one area of a structure to another. Even though thermal anomalies are invisible to the eye, temperature variations will clearly show up on my infrared camera's view screen as "cold" or "hot" spots. These spots will contain color variations along with excessive temperature differentials if hidden issues are lurking behind surfaces of your building. The spectrums of light will allow me to analyze what's going on in specific areas throughout your building. As you and I walk through your building, I will be pointing out any areas of concern and then interpreting my camera readings to you. Once my infrared inspection is finalized, my findings will be compiled into a professional report which will contain plenty of pictures and descriptions for easy understanding.

In order for me to complete your formal report in a professional manner, I have specially designed software that allows me to present your infrared findings and your digital photos in a side-by-side photo comparison format. This type of reporting system allows you to view both, the real time digital photo alongside the highlighted thermal photo of the area of concern. There will be no confusion in comprehending my easy-to-understand report. I will be including close-up infrared photos of all issues of concern along with digital wide angle views, so that everyone reading my infrared report will understand the exact location of the issues in question. Directly under these images, you will find my interpretations of what's actually going on behind particular surfaces of your home. SAMPLE IR REPORT

I am an expert who has a solid understanding of heat transfer laws, thermal dynamics and properties of why objects are hot or not or appear to be hot or not. Thermal imaging allows me to identify hidden problem areas much faster and (in most cases) can avoid building owners from using invasive and destructive measures in order to pinpoint problem areas behind finished surfaces. Scanning a building with my infrared camera provides me with crucial information about issues that may be hidden behind walls, ceilings, roof surfaces or any other inaccessible finished areas throughout your building. In providing this optional infrared service, I am now fully able to detect, interpret and document hidden faults and anomalies for immediate corrective action. I can even prioritize specific repairs to certain concealed areas of your building if the issue is serious. Without utilizing my infrared camera, there may be hidden defects that can normally go undetected in the course of my standard visual inspection.

Stay tuned for my next BLOG post, which will include the many applications that infrared imaging is used for and how easy it is to locate serious issues that are totally concealed behind your walls.

Additional information pertaining to infrared(thermal) imaging can be found at ....http:www.massinfrared.com

The easiest way to take care of your house is to keep unwanted moisture away from the exterior, particularly the foundation, and out of the interior, particularly the attic, closets, and interior ceilings. This typically means little or no watering next to your foundation. This typically translates into no high-water-use plants next to your foundation. (What's a high water-use plant? Typically they are big plants, tropical plants, and plants that have large foliage or lots of flowers.) I recommend regular monitoring and maintenance of the exterior roof, walls, and foundation to include the structural and mechanical components attached to them and all interior walls and floors under any upper stories.

WHAT IS REGULAR MONITORING AND MAINTENANCE?

Home ownership! It's not easy being a homeowner, and there will be many things that become problems while you own your home in which you will need to spend money to resolve. I recommend proactive preventive maintenance rather that after-the-fact reactive repair. To that end, throughout your inspection report you may read certain recommendations of homeowner monitoring and maintenance. This means that things will fall apart or become problematic if you don't take care of them periodically. Some items will need to be monitored and maintained Daily - (plumbing fixtures, basement, etc.), Monthly - (GFCI outlets, etc.) or Annually - (roof, water heater, fireplace, gas-using appliances, etc.). You're investing a substantial amount of money in your home. Please take care of it or hire professional service contractors to continually take care of it for you.

GRADING AND DRAINAGE

Grading and drainage are probably the most significant aspects of a property, simply because of the direct and indirect damage that moisture can have on structures. More damage has probably resulted from moisture and expansive soils than from most natural disasters, and for this reason I am particularly diligent when I evaluate property conditions. In fact, I compare all properties to an ideal. In short, the ideal property will have soils that slope away from the house (not towards or leveled out) and the interior floors will be at least several inches higher than the exterior grading. Also, the house will have gutters and downspouts that discharge into area drains with catch basins that carry water away to hard surfaces.

If there are no gutters in place, rainwater heads right for the weeping tile around the basement and can overload your foundation drainage system causing a flooded basement. The land around many homes settles over time, and then slopes in toward the foundation. If your foundation grading slopes inward, you'll want to fill in and grade the lot so you have at least 6 feet out from around the entire foundation. Ultimatey, you'll want all foundation grading always sloping away from your house.

If a property does not meet this ideal condition, or if any portion of the interior floor is below grade, I will not endorse it, even though there may be no evidence of moisture intrusion.

I have discovered evidence of moisture intrusion inside homes (when it was raining) that would not have been apparent otherwise. I recommend that you consult with a grading and drainage contractor. Please go to"Maintaining Your Foundation", where I have explained (in more detail) about perfect exterior conditions.

This picture is a perfect example of the problems that are associated with Aluminum wiring. Note letters A and B (the insulation jackets are melted), which I will explain "Why" in the third paragraph and C (mixing copper wiring with aluminum wiring on the same breaker). Aluminum wiring can not be mixed with copper wiring and breakers can not be double tapped with two wires, unless designated by manufacturer and the breaker connnection will contain a special clip for double tapping. Aluminum wiring is very easy to identify due to it's obvious aluminum color. Aluminum wiring is not to be confused with tin coated copper which looks similar to aluminum wiring but aluminum wiring has distinguishing characteristics and is a solid conductor.

During the 1970's, aluminum (instead of copper) wiring became quite popular and was extensively used throughout the United States. Since that time, aluminum wiring has been implicated in a number of house fires, which caused jurisdictions to no longer permit aluminum wiring in new installations. I highly recommend that you do not use aluminum wiring for any type of new installation. But don't panic if your house does contain aluminum wiring. Aluminum wiring, when properly installed, can be just as safe as copper wiring. Aluminum wiring is, however, very unforgiving of improper installations. I will cover a bit of the theory behind potential electrical problems, and what you can do to make your wiring (in your home) safe.

The main problem that exists with aluminum wiring is a phenomenon known as "cold creep". When aluminum wiring warms up, it expands. When it cools down, it contracts. Unlike copper, when aluminum goes through a number of warm/cool cycles it loses a bit of it's tightness over time. To make the problem worse, aluminum oxidizes (or corrodes) when in contact with certain types of metal, so the resistance of the connection will go up. Which causes the aluminum wiring to heat up and corrode/oxidize even more. Eventually the wire may start to become very hot and melt the insulation jacket (shown in the picture above) or the fixture that it's attached to, and possibly even cause a fire.

Since people usually encounter aluminum wiring when they move into a house that was built in the 70's, I will cover the basic points of safe aluminum wiring. I suggest that, if you're considering purchasing a home with aluminum wiring or have discovered aluminum wiring after moving in, that you hire a licensed electrician to inspect the wiring for the following:

1) Fixtures (eg: outlets and switches) directly attached to aluminum wiring should be rated for it. The device will be stamped with "Al/Cu" or "CO/ALR". The latter supersedes the former, but both are completely safe. These fixtures are somewhat more expensive than the ordinary fixtures.

2) Wires should be properly connected (at least 3/4 way around the screw in a clockwise direction). All connections should be tight. While repeated tightening of the screws can make the problem worse, during the inspection it would pay off to snug up each connection.

{Note that stranded aluminum wiring is still often used for the main service entrance cable at your main panel. It should also be inspected.}

3) The "push-in" terminals are an extreme hazard with an aluminum wires. Any connections using the push-in terminals should be upgraded with the proper screw connections immediately.

4) There should be no signs of overheating: darkened connections, melted insulation, or "baked" fixtures. Any such damage should be repaired by a licensed Electrician and the connection should be upgraded.

5) Connections between aluminum and copper wire need to be handled specially. Current codes require that the connectors used must be specially marked for connecting aluminum to copper. The NEC requires that the wire be connected together using special crimp devices, with an anti-oxidant grease. The tools and materials for the latter are quite expensive - not practical to do it yourself unless you can rent the tool.

{Note that regulations are changing rapidly in this area. Suggest that you discuss any work with an Electrical inspector if you're going to do more than one or two connections.}

6) Any non-rated receptacles can be connected to aluminum wiring by means of a short copper "pigtail". See #5 above.

7) Shows reasonable workmanship: neat wiring, properly stripped (not nicked) wire etc.

If, when considering purchasing a home, my inspection of the exposed wiring (in your prospective home) shows no problems, you can consider the wiring safe. If there are signs of electrical problems in many places (which will be noted on your home inspection report), I suggest you consider a complete electrical inspection and possibly upgrading all branch wiring throughout the house. If the wrong receptacles are used, you can replace them with the proper type, or have the Electrician use pigtails. Having this professionally done by a licensed Electrician can run close to $10.00 per receptacle/switch plus hourly labor.

UPGRADING ALUMINUM WIRING

Your home is one of the single biggest investments you'll ever make, so be sure you that you do all you can to care for it properly. A well-maintained home usually sells more readily and usually brings a higher price. It's also more comfortable and regular care minimizes any unexpected repair work and expenses. Regularly scheduled small repairs and upgrades to your home can and will keep costs from becoming exorbitant.

This comprehensive maintenance schedule I'm presenting to you pertains to home owners in New England and is simply a general guide for you to follow. The actual timing is left up to you to decide, and you may want to further divide the list of items (for each season) into months, depending on your region.

 Now, let's get to work.

FALL IS NOW HERE....

And another freezing winter is right around the corner. So before any of that cold weather arrives here in New England, here's your annual checklist of items that should be performed in order to get your home ready for the change of season.

Have all your heating and cooling systems checked by a qualified service person once a year or according to the manufacturer's warranty and service recommendations. Failure to perform manufacturer-recommended servicing may void warranties.

FURNACE: Examine the forced air furnace fan belt for wear, looseness or noise; clean fan blades of any dirt buildup (after disconnecting the electricity to the motor). Then clean the dust build-up from around the air grills (registers) and try to vacuum the supply ducts behind these grills. Open the furnace humidifier cover (if equipped) and clean the inside parts of the humidifier. Hire a licensed HVAC technician to inspect the thermostat, electrical components and controls, inspect the heat exchanger, check flue, air flow and air fuel mixture, adjust the burner and oil the motor and circulating fan. The exhaust pipe should be checked for loose or corroded sections. Have your ducts completely cleaned at least every 5 to 6 years, this keeps your furnace clean and it will increase the life expectancy. Make sure the exposed duct work id free of cracks or leaks and seal seams (where needed) with aluminum tape.

BOILER: Bleed the air from hot water radiators. Older circulating pumps should be lubricated twice during the heating season. Expansion tanks should be drained annually. The heat shield (located where the burner enters the heat exchanger) should be checked to ensure that it is not loose or corroded. Burn marks around the heat shield or soot on the top front of the burner area may indicate a draft or combustion problem. A Plumber should be contacted to correct any issues.

OIL FURNACES AND BOILERS: Oil systems should be checked by a qualified technician on an annual basis. Oily soot deposits at registers of forced-air systems may indicate a cracked heat exchanger. A technician should be contacted immediately. The exhaust pipe from the furnace or boiler should be checked for loose connections or corroded sections. The barometric damper on the exhaust pipe should rotate freely and not be left in the open position. The chimney clean out (located at the lower portion of the chimney) should be cleaned out of any debris. The oil tank filter area and it's belly should be inspected for leaks. Soot on the front of the furnace or boiler may indicate a draft or combustion problem. A technician should be contacted to correct any issues.

Paint interior rooms while it's still warm enough to leave your windows open. Ditto for shampooing or replacing any carpets.

Remove all window air-conditioning units and store them in a safe area. If they are not removable, cover them with plastic to protect them over the winter and insulate the wall opening to prevent freezing winds from entering the wall cavity.

Check smooth functioning of all windows and lubricate them as required. For single pane widows, remove or slide all screens in the up position and then slide the storm windows into place. Examine all hardware and locks on your windows and doors, and lubricate any moving parts. Each exterior door should have a one-inch deadbolt lock for safety.

All yard care power equipment should be drained of it's fuel in the late fall or early winter and serviced according to manufacturer's instructions.

Cover outdoor furniture or store it inside a shed.

Clean and repair garden equipment after the last use of the season. Remove dirt and rust, then store in a dry area. Upcoming winter will be a good time to file rough spots on hoes and shovels and to apply linseed oil to the handles of all garden tools. Thoroughly rinse pesticide and herbicide sprayers to prevent clogging, and rinse fertilizer spreaders to prevent corrosion.

Ensure that all smoke detectors, carbon monoxide detectors and fire extinguishers are in good working order. Replace the batteries in appropriate devices as needed, or at least twice each year. Massachusetts regulations require detectors to be installed on every habitable level of your home and within 10 feet of any bedroom.

Check gauge on all fire extinguishers; recharge or replace if necessary.

Check fire escape routes, door and window locks and hardware, and lighting around outside of your house; ensure that your family has good security habits.

Again, Check the basement floor drain to ensure the trap contains water. Refill with water or oil if necessary.

Take care of known issues with pipes that may freeze. Heat tape/wire can be used to keep them warm during extremely cold weather or insulate them to improve freezing conditions.

Drain and store all outdoor hoses. Drain the hose bib (exterior faucet), unless your house contains frost proof hose bibs. Do this by opening the valve supplying the outdoor faucet, then turn off this supply from inside your home. This will allow all water to leave the piping. Install freeze-proof faucet covers as needed.

Drain the sprinkler systems (if applicable): Now is the time to be thinking about having your sprinkler and irrigation systems blown out and shut down. You can rent a compressor and do this task yourself or simply contact a irrigation system installer and they will handle this task for you.

Ensure that all doors to the outside shut tightly, and check other doors for ease of use. Renew door weatherstripping if required. If there is a door between your house and the garage, install or check the adjustment of the self-closing device to ensure it closes the door completely, without you having to pull it closed manually.

Disconnect the duct connected to the dryer and vacuum the lint from duct, the areas surrounding your clothes dryer and your dryers' vent hood outside.

Ensure that all windows and skylights close tightly. Remove screens from the inside of casement windows to allow air from the heating system to keep condensation off window glass.

Again, Clean leaves from eaves troughs (gutters) and roofs, and test downspouts to ensure proper drainage from the roof. Ensure that these downspouts carry all rain water away from the foundation area at least 6 feet. Downspout extensions will improve any basement seepage conditions. If you do not like the ugly appearance of the long downspout extensions, underground Dry Well installations will hide all your drainage piping.

Check chimneys for obstructions such as nests. Have your wood burning fireplaces and appliances inspected annually and cleaned/swept and repaired as required to prevent chimney fires and carbon monoxide poisoning.

WINTER

Clean or replace your furnace air filters every other month during the heating season. Periodically check the ventilation area outside (intake and exhaust) to make sure they are not blocked by snow or debris. Then go back inside and vacuum all the heating supply registers, return grills, baseboards or radiators.

After consulting your hot water tank owner's manual, carefully test the temperature and pressure relief valve to ensure it is not stuck in the closed position. (Caution: This test may release hot water that can cause burns and it may also cause the valve to develop a slow leak due to sediment build-up not allowing the valve to close fully. This will require a plumber to replace the TPR valve). In some areas, sludge may accumulate in the bottom of the water heater. Draining approximately 1 gallon of water from the clean-out spigot at the bottom of your tank will indicate the presence of sludge and the necessity for regular draining to control sediment and maintain it's efficiency. Be sure to shut off the power or fuel supply before draining any water from the water heater.

Clean the humidifier internal parts (if equipped), two or three times during the winter season. These parts become clogged very easily.

Vacuum bathroom fan grille or any other registers you may have in your home. I recommend removing the register grills and vacuuming inside the duct work also, (as far in as possible). Vacuum all fire and smoke detectors, as dust or spider webs can prevent them from functioning. Dust all ceiling fan blades.

Vacuum radiator grilles at the rear of refrigerators and freezers. Empty and clean the drip tray underneath the refrigerator.

Check inside bathroom vanities and kitchen sink cabinets for signs of moisture. Look for leaks at shut-off valves at sinks, toilets, laundry equipment, and main water shut-off valves. Carefully inspect all pipes for condensation or slow drips. Repair the plumbing system if necessary.

Remove mineral deposits from faucet aerators and shower heads by removing them and soaking the parts in white vinegar and scrubbing them with an old toothbrush.

Examine attic for frost accumulation. Check roof for ice dams or ice build-up. If either of these do occur, this is a sign of