Nothing is more frustrating than dealing with a wet or flooded basement. Wet basements and crawl spaces are sources of high humidity, which can produce surface condensation, mildew and fungi, musty odors, and an unhealthful environment. Such moisture can cause deterioration of the foundation mortar, floor joists, beams, supports, sub flooring, insulation, and electrical-mechanical systems.

Prolonged water around the footer and foundation wall can soften the soil and weaken its bearing capacity, increasing the possibility of wall settlement and cracking. Serious seepage under the foundation footer may erode soil away and cause the wall to drop or crack. Excessive moisture can eventually penetrate the sub flooring and buckle the flooring or cause warping, making doors and closets difficult to open or close. Since crawl space or basement dampness always moves toward the drier upstairs areas, higher humidity will result in costlier heating and air conditioning bills. In the case of crawl spaces, if the under flooring insulation collects moisture, or sags from excessive wetness, the heating and air conditioning costs are driven even higher. Finally, wet basements and crawl spaces reduce the value of the house--at least by the amount that would be required to repair the damage and to eliminate the cause of the problem. Some homeowners are reluctant to discuss or admit their water problem; for fear that the publicity of an actual or even a perceived problem would reduce the value of their investment.

Homeowner insurance that fully covers basement flooding damage is an important means of financial protection to homeowners. Coverage for wet basements varies from state to state and company to company. But typically, the damage from water seeping in from the outside or backing up from the sewer is not covered by standard homeowner policies. In some cases, special coverage can be purchased to cover these risks, but it is usually limited in the types of personal property it covers and amounts of coverage that may be purchased.

It is up to each homeowner to know how to prevent water damage before it starts. This can be done through proper home maintenance and installation of systems intended to remove water before it gets into the basement.

CAUSE OF WET BASEMENTS AND CRAWLSPACES

Most wet basements or crawl spaces are caused by surface water which is not adequately drained away from the exterior foundation wall.

Sources of this water include the following:

Roof water, if no gutters and downspouts are presently installed.

Roof water, if the guttering leaks or overflows because of clogging from leaves and bird nests

Roof water if the downspouts (leaders) are clogged or do not have sufficient means at their outlets to drain water away from the foundation wall. Frequently, a downspout ends right at the corner of the house without an elbow and a 4-6 foot extension to carry roof water away from the foundation, leaving roof water to concentrate at that point and seep into the soil next to the foundation wall. A typical 2000 square foot roof can produce almost 1250 gallons of water during just 1 inch of rainfall. If the rainfall is steady and prolonged, the opportunity for this roof water to soak into the ground next to the foundation wall is high.

Excessive watering of flower beds and shrubbery around the foundation wall. Once the upper soil layer or mulch bed air spaces are filled with water, the excess water either runs off or seeps into the ground next to the wall. Prolonged and excessive watering can contribute a large amount of water to basements.

Rainwater runoff from the adjacent lawn, walks, or driveway areas if the landscaping forces water to drain toward the house instead of away. If surface runoff is directed toward the foundation wall, this water will pond and eventually soak into the soil, thus becoming a potential source of basement or crawl space water. Downspout splash pads are not very effective if they drain onto a backward-draining slope toward the foundation wall.

Subsurface or groundwater may be intercepted or dammed up by a basement or foundation wall. Houses which are built down slope on or at the base of hillsides are particularly vulnerable since there is greater opportunity for surface water to soak into the soil to become groundwater and because groundwater flows downhill by gravity. Foundation walls act like dams and can intercept and trap this subsurface water, causing pressure build-up on the outside and forcing water through joints and cracks in basement walls or seepage under the footer.

Nearby springs may have been filled in or covered up by the developer. Unless the springs were properly drained away from the lot or subdivision, such water will eventually seep into the surrounding fill, become a pool of groundwater, and eventually force itself laterally and upwardly into basements and crawl spaces.

Nearby creeks may overflow during storm runoff and either directly flood basement or crawl space areas, or contribute to the groundwater, which may become sufficiently high to cause seepage into the basement or crawl space area. Homeowners may not experience the effects of groundwater seepage or overflowing creeks for months or years after purchasing a house because of drought or infrequent out-of-bank flooding. However, when such conditions do occur, they may come suddenly without warning and cause serious problems after the warranty period has expired.

Improperly installed, clogged, collapsed, or leaky drains may not allow downspout water or foundation wall water to escape. Perimeter, footer, or foundation drains are installed around the exterior of a house below the basement floor to intercept and dispose of subsurface water to eliminate groundwater build-up and seepage under the house. If these drains are improperly installed or become clogged with silt or roots, they will not operate as intended. Sometimes an otherwise good perimeter drain gets covered up at its end(s) during the final backfilling or landscaping stages of construction and the intercepted water has no place to go but to build up behind the foundation wall and eventually to seep into the basement or crawl space.

Underground drains leading away from downspouts may not have sufficient slope to carry water away; may empty into the adjacent lawn and get covered with topsoil; may become crushed during landscaping or become pinched at their outlets; or may lead to an area which ponds and backs up water. The end result in all these cases is leakage or overflowing at the bottom of the downspout and water penetrating the foundation area.

Soil continuously draws water up from subsurface groundwater sources in a crawl space like a blotter by a mechanism known as capillary attraction. The finer the soil (e.g. clays), the more aggressive the capillary pumping action. As the water rises to the surface, it evaporates into the crawl space. Such ground moisture can be a significant source of dampness and humidity under a house, even without standing water. The presence of capillary water is often indicated by a whitish residue, left on the ground surface of the crawl spaces, resulting from evaporation of water containing minerals and salts. Lack of a moisture barrier, such as plastic sheet, will allow this capillary action and evaporation to contribute almost unlimited moisture sources to crawl space areas.

DRYING OUT A WET BASEMENT

If you have water running into your basement, the first thing to do is to see if it occurs immediately after a rain. If this is the case, it is probably due to surface water puddling against the outside of the basement walls. This is the most common source of basement water problems and one that you may be able to fix yourself.

First of all, you need to locate the source of entry. I suggest you look for ways exterior run-off water can enter into this area in the basement. Make sure downspout runoff isn't pooling or percolating into soil near the foundation during a storm, and that gutter and downspout seams aren't leaking. Gutters should be catching the rain and channeling it to the downspouts. Make sure there is no debris blocking the inlet of the downspout and preventing water from escaping down the spout. The downspouts should have extensions so that they discharge the water at least five feet away from the house.

Check the ground outside your foundation. Unfortunately, the earth that was used to back fill around most foundations settles over the years so it is extremely common for earth near the house to be lower than the rest of the yard. All grading should slope away from your house at least 1 inch vertically for every 1 foot of horizontal travel. If earth is already near the top of the foundation or if your lot slopes toward the house on one side, you may need to use another approach. In this case, establish a swale or shallow ditch on that side of the house to intercept the surface water and carry it around the house and down slope toward the street. Place the drainage path as far from the house as possible. If you have enough space, the ditch can easily be made less noticeable by blending it into the lawn.

If you have pavement immediately next to the house, be sure it slopes away. If a driveway or sidewalk is either extremely flat or slopes toward the house you have several choices. You can replace the pavement and correct the grade in the process. If it is concrete, you can have it mud jacked (raised), which usually costs about half as much as replacing the concrete. You can also add an additional layer of pavement next to the house to reverse the slope. If you do the latter, you will also need to caulk joints and cracks in the drive or sidewalk so that water which pools on the surface doesn't penetrate and end up in the basement.

Window wells are another common source of basement water problems. The window well itself should be much deeper than the window sill to provide a place to catch rain that might fall into it. The top rim should be 3 to 4" above grade with the ground sloping away so that water is not channeled into the window well. If the window well is on a side of the house where wind drives rain or ice against the house, installing a plastic bubble cover over the well will help keep rain, leaves and snow out.

Fixing any grading related problems such as those mentioned here will take care of the majority of basement water problems and should always be done first, even if you are considering other measures such as repairing a leaky crack in a Poured Concrete foundation. If that's the case, I personally recommend that you contact a Massachusetts based company called Crack-X. They will bond your crack surfaces together by injecting a specially formulated epoxy material that will stop water from leaking into your basement. This process closes the crack and restores the structural integrity of the wall by producing a "weld" that is equal to the original concrete in strength and performance. They will offer a ten year warranty. They can be contacted by phone at 1-877-CRACK-FX or browse their website at http://www.crackfx.com

SEVERE FLOODING IN BASEMENTS (Waterproofing)

In my humble opinion, "water proofing" systems, especially those on the exterior of a building should be used only as a last resort. Many water proofing systems involve water collection and discharge and are very costly. If you've tried all my recommendations and water is still gushing into your basement, and you can not resolve this, I recommend that you call in a professional. Otherwise, consider an interior gutter. This dam-and-channel system goes around the perimeter of the basement floor and collects water that flows down or through the walls or floor, routing it to a floor drain or sump pump. If you decide to go this route, I highly recommend contacting a Massachusetts based company called B-Dry at 1-888-400-2379 or browse their website HERE.

MASSACHUSETTS HOME INSPECTIONS

Your deck is a valuable asset to your home. Its surface is constantly exposed to our weather extremes causing the wood to crack, fade, split, splinter, cup and warp. The majority of decks in New England are made from pressure-treated pine. Although pressure-treated wood resists insects and decay, it's still vulnerable to moisture, freezing and the sun's rays. The same applies to other exterior woods including Cedar, Cypress and Mahogany. To keep it looking new and lasting much than the average deck, a regular maintenance treatment system is necessary. Approximately once a year, your deck should be checked for loose railings, balusters, walk boards and protruding nails. Then it should be thoroughly cleaned, and resealed.

Take the time to examine all the wood carefully, to see if any boards have rotted. Unfortunately, most wood rot occurs in places that are hard to see; Under the decking boards, at the ledger (the horizontal board that is attached to the house), on the underside of stair treads, and the exposed end grains of all decking. If possible, crawl underneath your deck to thoroughly perform your inspection. If your deck has wood posts or stair stringers that penetrate the dirt, probe the bearing ends for rot. Replace if necessary and this time use concrete footings to separate the wood from the dirt. Here in Massachusetts, the footings should be poured 3 1/2 to four feet deep (due to our frostline) and should terminate above ground approximately 3 to 6 inches high. It's always good to install cleats under the post to separate it from the concrete footing, which can become moist.

Cleaning will involve the removal of dirt, algae, moss, and other organic matter. In accordance with the directions that come with the cleaning solutions, it may be necessary to hose down the deck and surrounding area before applying any cleaning solutions. The water will also help dilute any chemicals that may inadvertently come into contact with surrounding plants and grass. Even with mild solutions, care must be taken to limit the amount of solution that gets on nearby plants and grass. Many cleaning solutions contain bleach, which is toxic to plants when in concentrated form. The solutions can be brushed onto the deck using a broom or can be lightly sprayed on with a power washer under low pressure. Power washers under excessive pressure can ruin the grain on your decking.

You can also give your wood surfaces (oiled, oil-stained, or painted) a good scrubbing using the following home-made formula...

1 cup of powdered laundry detergent

1/2 cup liquid chlorine bleach (if moss is present)

1 gallon of hot water

After waiting the directed length of time for the chemicals to do their work, the deck should be thoroughly rinsed. This is the step where more power can be particularly helpful, as water under low pressure can rinse out both dirt and chemicals more effectively.

However, too much pressure can gouge wood or cause the grain to become exaggerated. Within wood, the visible grain marks differences in density and hardness. Part of each grain is relatively soft wood. This softer wood can be gouged if too much pressure is used. At still higher pressures, even the harder parts of the grain can be damaged. Do not get too close to any wood when using a pressure sprayer.

SEALING

If you plan to refinish the wood after cleaning, allow the wood to completely dry before applying the finish. Once dry, resealing is accomplished by applying a clear or semi-clear liquid sealant to all exposed surfaces. Homeowners can do any of these tasks themselves, but often don't do them as well as a professional.

STAINING

If you plan on staining your deck, look for a Stain that is designed specifically for decks. Well-meaning do-it-yourselfers often end up applying stains designed for vertical surfaces, such as siding. Stains designed for use on vertical surfaces are not as abrasion resistant as those made for decks. Deck stains are made to resist scuffing where lots of traffic is expected. Always apply an oil or oil-stain finish either early or late in the day when the wood is not in full sun. The thinner that helps the oil penetrate evaporates too quickly on hot days. The oil can end up laying on the surface. Then help to force the oil or oil-stain into the surface by going back over the entire area with a paintbrush or roller (called back brushing)

Alternatives to Traditional Decking Materials

If you do not have time to maintain a traditional wood deck, there are now new decking material options. Several companies are now producing new composite decking materials that are resistant to rot, do not warp or splinter, maintains its shape, does not shrink or expand and doesn't require periodic staining. Most are made of recycled plastic or a blend of wood and plastic called Composite Decking. One brand name is that I'm familiar with is Trex Decking.

Composite decking weathers, like wood, but will age to an even tone without deteriorating. Composite decking does lack the strength of wood, however, and wont span the same distances as wood. With appropriate structural support, composite decking is well suited to first floor and above ground decks. Plastic structural beams are not readily available in all markets and tend to make the deck bouncy, so pressure-treated wood is most commonly used to support this type of decking. While widespread experience with this product is just now occurring, results look very promising. This material is more expensive initially than the common wood products used today, but they offer large savings over time due to their low-maintenance.

There's also a lifetime vinyl railing system that you can have installed with the composite decking, that'll last much longer than tradional wood. These plastic products will last a lifetime.

I've booked an excessive amount of ice dam calls (for help) this winter season and Infrared (Thermal) Imaging has assisted me in locating the exact cause of every last one of these ice dams.

Ice dams in Massachusetts are becoming a nuisance and are causing expensive damage to many soffit areas, gutters and the most outer portion of living area walls. First let me explain how this massive ice mound forms on the edge of your roof.

It snows and your roof will continue to accumulate this snow.

The temperature (outside) drops to below freezing.

The temperature inside your attic is above freezing, thus raising the temperature of your roofing material to above freezing.

Because of the temperature differential and the warmer roof, the snow on top of the roof starts to slowly melt and the melted snow (now water) starts to cascade down the roof (underneath all the accumulated snow) in an attempt to drain off the roof or into your gutters.

As soon as the water reaches the outer edge of the roof (where the roof will not be as warm as the attic cavity) it gets exposed to the freezing air. The cascading water now freezes into an ice mound along the edges of your roof and the gutters (if applicable).

As more and more melted snow (water) continues to cascade down your roof, it continues to freeze behind and on top of the previously frozen run off, forming a much larger ice dam. Once this ice dam takes shape, it will literally trap any water that is attempting to drain down and off the roof. Now, all the melting water is dammed and has nowhere to drain to, so it builds up. This accumulating water is simply backing up and is forced right under your roofing material and into your attic or soffit cavity (and then gravity takes over), and this water infiltration simply drips down onto your living area walls, causing the nuisance staining and damage that you are observing throughout your walls.

Preventing this ice from forming on the edge of your roof in the first place is absolutely preventable. Many homeowners are continuously researching articles on “HOW TO PREVENT ICE DAMS” and they learn that proper insulation and ventilation is necessary to prevent these ice dams. That’s fine, but after most homeowners obtain their education on “HOW TO PREVENT ICE DAMS” they may attempt to correct their ice dam situation, but are still baffled and are unable to figure out exactly where any improvement is needed. That’s why they call me.

Your solution to alleviate your ice dam issues is the use of Infrared technology. My infrared inspection is a brilliant method of providing you with an instant snapshot of any active heat loss through the most outer portion of your walls and ceilings of your home. Deficient insulation is a poor insulator, which makes it a great conductor of your conditioned air, and this is what enables me to easily detect the inefficient insulation in these areas. Thermal imaging will visually show thermal mapping of any improperly insulated ceiling and wall cavities that are causing the ice damming at the outer roof edges of your home.

Take a look at the images below and see how easy Infrared detects un-insulated cavities where ice dams are imminent...

Infrared clearly detects cold air (blue color) infiltrating the living area

Infrared detects an entire ceiling cavity missing insulation

Thermal imaging detects cold spots from improperly installed soffit vents

Infrared detects insulation issues above this bathroom ceiling.

Wood Boring Insects infest more than 700,000 homes each and every year. Your home is your biggest financial investment, and protecting it against Wood Boring Insects should be a high priority. If left unchecked, insects can systematically destroy your home and any valuable wood objects within it. Nonetheless, any discovery of insects in your home means making some difficult choices as to what steps to take in order to prevent any further damage.

A WBI inspection is usually a big deal for most of my clients. If you had a home inspection performed and it included a WBI inspection, please review your WBI report to determine if evidence of insect activity was found on your prospective property. If evidence of Wood Boring Insect activity was noted, I recommend an exterminator be contacted for treatment as soon as possible and to have a licensed Carpenter evaluate and estimate repairs for replacement of any damaged areas to include determining if hidden damage exists behind the finished walls.

Please click the images below to read more in depth information regarding that particular insect...

     Termites                Powder Post         Carpenter Ants                    Carpenter Bees

                                    Beetles

Roof Maintenance

The roof over your head is one of the most important components of your home and I'm going to tell you how to keep it in great condition. You want to protect your lifetime investment without spending a lot of money and waiting until thousands of dollars worth of damage occur to the interior because of a roof leak. Simply place a couple hundred dollars into your annual home maintenance budget for a roofing contractor to inspect your roof on a yearly basis. Every October when you set your clocks back (or any other easily remembered day in the Fall, but definitely before the winter season), pay a qualified roofing contractor to come out and examine your roof and give it the A-OK (some roofing contractors may also provide warranties against leaks for a year or two). Now you should make it through the winter season with no problems. And a couple of hundred dollars or so in preventive maintenance for the roof is much better than waiting until it leaks and going through the anguish of a major roof leak, damage to the structure interior and furniture, and possible damage to your books, pictures, photographs, and other priceless memento's of you and your family.

Your roof covering will last a long time in our New England climate if you'll do three things: make sure your attic has (1) adequate ventilation (e.g., any combination of gable, soffit, ridge, drip edge, turbine, roof vents; and attic fans), (2) adequate insulation, and (3) give a roofing contractor a couple of hundred dollars or so each year, or toward the end of whatever warranty period the roofing contractor provides you, to inspect your roof and flashings.

SOME SIMPLE STEPS TO FOLLOW IN ORDER TO KEEP YOUR ROOF IN GREAT SHAPE...

Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes, chimneys and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration, especially if your roof is asphalt based such as a built-up roof or asphalt shingles.

Keep moss, algae and black stains off your roof surface. If your roof is starting to collect spots of moss or black algae and fungus lines, simply install zinc strips along the hips and ridges of your roof. The natural action of rain water time-releases zinc carbonate (a proven fungi-stat) which then washes down the roof shingles, preventing any destructive roof moss, algae and fungus growth.

Check all flashing's and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes or openings in them.

Dab some roof cement under any loose or lifting shingle tabs. One dab on either side should do.

Replace any damaged shingles.

Keep all gutters free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them and checking flow and observe all seams for leakage.

Trim back any overhanging tree branches from the roof area.

Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.

Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it's damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.

WHAT IS RADON?

Radon is a radioactive gas. It's colorless, odorless, tasteless, and chemically inert. Unless you test for it, there is no way of telling how much is presently in your home.

Radon is formed by the natural radioactive decay of radium and uranium in rock, soil, and water. Naturally existing, low levels of uranium occur widely in the Earth's crust. It can be found in all 50 states. Once produced, radon moves through the ground to the air above. Some remains below the surface and dissolves in water that collects and flows under the ground's surface.

Radon has a half-life of about four days - half of a given quantity of it breaks down every four days. When radon undergoes radioactive decay, it emits ionizing radiation in the form of alpha particles. It also produces short-lived decay products, often called progeny or daughters, some of which are also radioactive. Unlike radon, the progeny are not gases and can easily attach to dust and other particles. Those particles can be transported by air and can also be breathed. The decay of progeny continues until stable, non-radioactive progeny are formed. At each step in the decay process, radiation is released.

HOW DOES RADON GET INTO YOUR HOME?

Most indoor radon comes into the building from the soil or rock beneath it. Radon and other gases rise through the soil and get trapped under the building. The trapped gases build up pressure. Air pressure inside homes is usually lower than the pressure in the soil. Therefore, the higher pressure under the building forces gases though floors and walls and into the building. Most of the gas moves through cracks and other openings. Once inside, the radon can become trapped and concentrated.

Openings which commonly allow easy flow of the gases into your home:

*Cracks in floors and walls

*Gaps in suspended floors

*Openings around sump pumps and drains

*Cavities in walls below grading

*Gaps around utility penetrations (pipes and wires)

*Crawl spaces that open directly into the building

Radon may also be dissolved in water, particularly well water. After coming from a faucet, about one ten thousandth of the radon in water is typically released into the air. The more radon there is in the water, the more it can contribute to the indoor radon level. Trace amounts of uranium are sometimes incorporated into materials used in construction. These include, but are not limited to concrete, brick, granite, and drywall. Though these materials have the potential to produce radon, they are rarely the main cause of an elevated radon level in a building. Outdoor air that is drawn into a building can also contribute to the indoor radon level.

The average outdoor air level is about 0.4 pCi/L, but it can be higher in some areas. While radon problems may be more common in some geographic areas, any home may have an elevated radon level. New and old homes, well-sealed and drafty homes, and homes with or without basements can have a problem.

Radon levels can be higher in homes that are well insulated, tightly sealed, and/or built on uranium-rich soil. Because of their closeness to the ground, basement and first floors typically have the highest radon levels. All homes below the third floor of a multi-family building are particularly at risk.

Health effects associated with Radon exposure?

There have been no reports of short-term effects or symptoms caused by radon exposure. The only reported long-term effect is lung cancer. The Surgeon General has warned that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States. There are currently no conclusive data on whether children are at greater risk than adults from radon. No specific subtype of lung cancer is associated with radon exposure. Scientists estimate that approximately 15,000 to 22,000 lung cancer deaths per year are related to radon.

Radon is present in nearly all air. Everyone breathes in radon every day, usually at very low levels. However, people who inhale high levels of radon are at an increased risk for developing lung cancer. If you inhale a radon atom, the atom can disintegrate while it is in your lungs. When it disintegrates, it becomes polonium-218, which is a metal. This metal atom can get trapped in your lungs, and over the next hour or so it will emit a number of alpha particles, beta particles and gamma rays.

It eventually turns into lead-210 with a half-life of 22 years, which is fairly stable in this context. But now you have an atom of lead in your system, which causes its own problems. It?s the quick, hour-long sequence of alpha, beta and gamma emissions that can lead to the mutations in the lung tissue, which can cause lung cancer over the course of your lifetime.

Smoking enormously increases the risk of lung cancer from radon exposure. If you smoke and you are exposed to elevated radon levels, your risk of lung cancer is especially high. Stop smoking now and lower your radon level to reduce your lung cancer risk. Not everyone exposed to elevated levels of radon will develop lung cancer, and the amount of time between exposure and the onset of the disease may be many years. Breathing radon does not cause any short-term health effects such as shortness of breath, coughing, headaches, or fever.

So, you can see that a high concentration of radon gas, despite the fact that it is completely natural, is not something you want in your home.

WHAT IS THE "ACCEPTABLE" LEVEL OF RADON IN AIR?

4.0 pCi/L or LESS (According to the EPA)

HOW OFTEN IS INDOOR AIR A PROBLEM?

Nearly one out of every 15 homes in the United States has a radon level EPA considers to be elevated - 4 pCi/L or greater. The U.S. average radon-in-air level in single family homes is 1.3 pCi/L. Because most people spend as much as 90 percent of their time indoors, indoor exposure to radon is an important concern.

Radon Risk Comparison Charts

Radon Risk If You Smoke

Radon Risk If You've Never Smoked

Houses can be tested for drugs just as simple as an individual gets tested. But...when you're purchasing a home, you're objective is not to pinpoint an individual drug user at this point in time. You want to test the actual components of the home to verify that the home is not contaminated with drugs (See pictures above). You want to find out whether or not previous owners have ever made, distributed or even used specific drugs in the dream home that you are planning on purchasing.

Some drugs have had lingering health effects in many homes that it has prompted local health officials to board them up until a professional cleanup is performed. Another important item of concern would be the safety of your children. As you know, children touch everything in sight and if drugs are present on the surfaces of a home, the results could be devastating. Testing for drugs in your prospective home now will give you the opportunity to get a sneak peek at what's actually been going on behind closed doors. My drug testing will give you peace of mind knowing that drug residue definitely does or does not exist on surfaces throughout the home. You can then proceed with your next step in purchasing the property. Avoid waiting for any accidents that could happen from exposure to drug residues.

My drug testing tool is patented technology that can instantly detect and identify 5 major types of illegal narcotics on any non-porous surface within a home. It gives me the ability to detect trace amounts of Cocaine, Amphetamine or Methamphetamine, Opiates (Heroin), and Marijuana (Cannabis) down to the nanogram level. This test utilizes patented biosensors that allow me to detect and identify invisible amounts of drug types, their patterns and their exact location. I will then provide you data on the intensity, type, and the location of any illegal drug activity within that particular home.

This test differentiates itself from other drug detection products that are currently available on the market today because it tests for the actual raw drug. Any trafficking residue can be easily detected as well as the sweat that was secreted and deposited on surfaces from drug impaired users. When an individual is blood-impaired or high on a particular drug they will actually sweat out the raw drug. They will then leave their sweat on multiple surfaces throughout the home by touching them. These surfaces include doors - knobs and trim, handrails, walls, light switches, worktables, sink fixtures, countertops, windows, etc. I can test every one of these surfaces to determine whether or not there were illegal drugs on the property. At the conclusion of my testing, I will record your results into a report and hand them to you. You can then take your next step into purchasing this home.

If you think this drug testing is an invasion of privacy, it is not. If you (the Buyer) will eventually own the property being tested, then you have the absolute right to test it for drug residues. It's not considered to be invasive at all. At this point of the sale, if the Sellers didn't do anything wrong, then there's nothing to worry about. Don't wait until it's too late, as drug clean-ups can cost you thousands of dollars. Home Buyers Nightmare

If you are reading this and are not purchasing a home but are simply curious if drug residues do actually exist within your home or workplace, please call me at 978-683-4984 to discuss quantifying you and your family's risks.

WHAT IS A GROUND FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTER?

These are receptacles that typically have the black and red test buttons on them (pictured above). GFCIs are found in outlets and service panels. They monitor the flow of current to and from appliances. If there's an imbalance in the flow, because of a frayed wire, a ground fault or a faulty device, current may attempt to travel through you, but the GFCI will quickly cut power to prevent any serious injury. Unless you have an outlet with a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI), you may be seriously shocked or burned because you may be the shortest route to the ground. Although they prevent electrocution, there is still a risk of electric shock.

GFCI Receptacles (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) - Safety Receptacles

They are required (by code) in many areas where electricity and water may come into contact. These areas include bathrooms, kitchen receptacles for countertop use within 6 feet of any sink, basements, pools, spas, laundry and utility rooms, garages and all receptacles located on the exterior of the home. At least one GFCI outlet is required in an unfinished basement.

There are GFCI outlets and GFCI-protected outlets which are outlets that are "downstream" of GFCI outlets, meaning that they are on the same circuit as a GFCI outlet, but do not have the red and black buttons on them. If there is no electricity to a GFCI-protected outlet, the GFCI outlet (at a separate location) might have tripped and disconnected electricity to this particular circuit. The reset button must be pressed in order to restore electricity to any downstream outlets.

You should test the GFCI outlets as soon as you move in, noting at the same time any protected outlets that may be present and which GFCI outlets control those protected outlets; typically the protected outlets should be labeled as such. Although they are proven life-saving devices, they are known to fail on a regular basis and should be tested monthly to ensure that they are functioning properly. DEFECTIVE GFCI's can become deadly.

To test the GFCI outlet, first plug a nightlight or lamp into the outlet. Turn the light on, and then press the "TEST" button on the GFCI outlet. The GFCI outlet's "RESET" button should pop out, and the light should go out. If the GFCI outlet is functioning properly, meaning that the light does go out, press the "RESET" button to restore power to the outlet. If the "RESET" button pops out but the light does not go out, either the GFCI outlet is not working properly or it is incorrectly wired. Call a qualified electrician to evaluate the problem. Usually the kitchen GFCI outlet will control any other outlets in the kitchen (sometimes more than one GFCI outlet is present in the kitchen). Sometimes all the bathroom outlets are placed on the same circuit, with only one GFCI outlet protecting the outlets in all the bathrooms. Occasionally a GFCI outlet in the garage will protect outlets in various bathrooms. Such garage installations can be inconvenient, particularly in multi-story buildings.

If GFCI outlets trip regularly, consult a qualified electrician immediately to determine why the tripping is occurring. GFCI outlets trip quite often when hair dryers are used on the circuit due to the electricity surge typically needed to start the dryer. If you notice this happening, try starting the dryer on the lowest setting and then moving up to the higher setting after a few seconds. If your circuit continues to trip, consult a qualified electrician for further evaluation.

There are many home Buyers out there (today) that do not know how to maintain their heating system. I'd like to explain the procedures here at ActiveRain so that Realtors can supply this information or this link to their Home Buyer clients. I'd like to see homeowners become fully aware of what a heating system requires in order to keep their expensive heating system functional for many years to come.

TYPES OF HEATING

Depending upon where you live and how your house was built, your home may have any of several different types of climate systems that help you to enjoy your interior spaces year-round. Forced-air Furnaces, Forced-hot water Boilers and Steam Boilers (fueled by gas or oil) are very common types of heating here in Massachusetts. Other types of heating systems that I see (but are not so common in Massachusetts) are radiant floors or ceilings, Electric baseboards, Heat Pumps and Wood and Pellot burning stoves.

Furnaces, Boilers, Electric baseboards, Heat Pumps and radiant heating systems can be unique in their operation and maintenance. My examination of your heating and cooling systems is mechanically limited since the units are not dismantled to examine the interior components. All heating and cooling appliances, including electric baseboards and radiant heating systems are tested by operating the thermostat or controls as a user would normally operate them on a daily basis. Gas shutoff valves are absolutely not tested.

Your heating equipment should be inspected and serviced on an annual basis. Before close of escrow, I highly recommend obtaining from the Seller any documents concerning regular maintenance and service and a safety check by public utility, or a complete system evaluation by a qualified heating specialist, particularly if heating components cannot be proven to have been inspected within the past twelve months. Utility companies will typically, but not always, provide a free safety check of all gas-using appliances.

FORCED AIR SYSTEMS (Hot and Cool)

In a forced Hot air heating system, the heat exchanger in a furnace is warmed by the burning fuel that is below it. A blower fan circulates the air from inside the home over the warm heat exchanger. This warmed air is then circulated throughout the home. This process heats the home through the floor, wall or ceiling registers.

In some homes, the forced hot air heating ducts are also used for Central air conditioning, which is an electric powered split-system. The two prime components of the system include the compressor unit and the evaporator unit. (Notice: The outside compressor unit has an average twelve to fifteen year service life with proper maintenance.) The heaviest, noisiest, heat-shedding components--the compressor and condenser coil, are installed outdoors, while the evaporator coil is installed indoors, usually in the form of an A-frame in the plenum of the forced-air furnace. In this case, the furnace's blower moves the interior warm air over the coils and distributes it into a chilled air. Two refrigerant lines run between the compressor and evaporator. The larger line (vapor line) should always be insulated to maintain temperature and prevent it from sweating. A condensate drain line runs from the indoor evaporator to a drainage point. This drain line may be connected to a device called a condensate pump if the installation elevation requires pumping the condensate up to an outside draining area.

The central air conditioning system shares the same duct distribution system and blower unit filter as the heating furnace in order to deliver cool conditioned air to the habitable rooms serviced by the system. One of the most important things you can do to maintain your forced air furnace and keep it running smoothly and efficiently is change your air filters on a regular basis. Once every three or four months is about right and it will prolong the life of your Furnace and improve the quality of your indoor air as a result. As you install the new air filter, make sure to have the arrows pointing in the direction of the air flow. Just remember, the air flows into the return duct towards the blower compartment. Disposable filters are recommended, but you may utilize a washable one made of steel or soft mesh. At the start of each heating season, open the blower compartment of your heater and make a visual inspection. Gently scrape the dust and grime off the blower blades with a screwdriver or putty knife. Most modern blower motors are sealed and self-lubricating. But if you have an older system, the motor may have an oil reservoir. If so, you should fill it at the start of the heating season.

If you have a gas furnace, a professional tuning and cleaning every two years is a good idea. Electric furnaces should be professionally inspected every two years and for oil furnaces; it's a good idea to schedule a tuning every year. If you have an older furnace (15 years or more), I highly recommend that you request your HVAC technician to literally inspect the Heat Exchanger for any cracks, holes or leaks, as my furnace inspection is mechanically limited since the furnace compartments require dismantling to examine this particular area. A Heat Exchanger inspection is vital because a deteriorated heat exchanger could allow deadly products of combustion into your living area.

BOILER SYSTEMS (Forced Hot Water)

For a Boiler, water is heated, usually to between 160 and 180 degrees Fahrenheit. Pumps circulate this hot water through the pipes in the building. This heated water warms the radiators or baseboards that are installed in the rooms. These radiators and baseboards, in turn, warm the air in the room. Boiler systems need regular maintenance to keep them operating efficiently. There is a danger of scalding or steam burns when working around a boiler system, so any maintenance to the boiler should be left to the licensed plumbing professionals.

I recommend that you have your boiler serviced annually to maintain proper efficiency. Some older circulating pumps require periodic oiling at the 3 small ports on top of the pump itself. If your boiler is equipped with these older pumps, verify that your plumber is oiling these ports. Routine annual inspection and cleaning by a qualified, licensed Plumber will keep your hot-water system running for many years to come without trouble.

A dirty, inefficient boiler will cost you far more than the service call. The serviceman catches little problems before they become big trouble. And a neglected system fails years sooner than a well-maintained one. Annual service keeps the system running properly and heads off most problems. You should also keep an eye on the system to make sure that all is well between inspections.

BOILER SYSTEMS (Steam)

Steam heat is an older style heating system, typically installed in buildings constructed before the 1950s. Water is heated in a boiler in a similar manner but does not utilize any circulating water. The boiling water is heated until it becomes steam. Steam, which is a gas, rises through the heat pipes and into the cast iron radiators. The rising steam causes these radiators to become hot. These radiators warm the air in a building.

Most steam boilers need water added every few days during the cold weather periods of winter. Some steam boilers have automatic water fill valves that will automatically add water when the water level becomes too low. If your boiler fails to start when the thermostat is calling for heat, it could be the result of the low water cut-off valve shutting the system down due to an insufficient water level. Check the glass tube on the side of the boiler. Make sure that there is a sufficient water level. If not, add water to boiler until the glass tube water level reaches 3/4 from the top. Never overfill this glass tube as water will start exiting from air vents and radiators. What a mess this will turn out to be.

Your Steam boiler will also need a weekly draining to keep sediment from building up inside and potentially blocking or clogging the interior components and valves. I recommend draining approximately 2 gallons or until the exiting water begins to clear up.

RADIATORS

Radiators usually aren't the most attractive element in the room, so most people try to disguise or hide them. But this can significantly reduce the amount of heat that reaches the room. Air needs to circulate underneath the radiator, so avoid pushing furniture up against the radiator or covering it with draperies. If you like to have a shelf or cabinet around your radiator, make it easy to remove during the heating season. If you paint your radiator, be sure to use the right type of paint - choose one that's made specifically for "high-heat" applications. Otherwise it may crack or peel within a few days. Keep in mind that multiple layers of paint can also cut down on the amount of heat that reaches the room.

There is an easy way to improve the efficiency of your radiators - just add a reflecting panel behind it. You can purchase them at a home center or hardware store, or you can fashion your own with a piece of plywood or paneling and place smooth sheets of aluminum foil onto this material. If you feel that a certain radiator makes a room too hot, you can shut it down completely by turning the control knob on the lower end of the radiator or just turn the bleed valve that is located on the upper side (if equipped) in order to lower the temperature itself.

HEAT PUMPS

Essentially, a heat pump is an air-conditioner working in reverse. In the summer, a heat pump functions like a normal air-conditioner when the temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit. (Use of A/C mode at colder outside temperatures could damage your compressor). In the cooler months, the heat pump will be operated in a reverse mode.

In this reverse mode, the heat pump heats a building by extracting the available heat energy from the outside air or underground water. Heat pumps are most effective at saving energy when in the heating mode. The problem with an air-source heat pump in a cold climate, however, is that your household needs more heat as the temperature outside goes down-- but the heat pump works less efficiently at lower outdoor temperatures. Below a temperature known as the "balance point," normally from 30 to 45 degrees F, supplementary heat is required and that means that expensive electrical-resistance heating now kicks in. In this particular mode, the heat pump can be quite expensive to operate.

Heat-pump performance will deteriorate without regular maintenance and service. The difference between the energy consumption of a well-maintained heat pump and a severely neglected one ranges from 10 to 25 percent. Always make sure you turn the power on at least 24 hours before using A/C or the Heat pump. Never cycle quickly between the two operating modes as this could damage your system.

REGULAR MAINTENANCE

Either the homeowner or service technician can perform the following routine maintenance tasks:

-Clean or replace filters regularly (every 2 to 3 months, depending on operating time and amount of dust in the environment).

-Clean the outdoor Condenser coils as often as necessary (when dirt build-up is visible on the outside of the coil). Also, remove all plant life and debris from around the outdoor Condenser.

-Clean evaporator coil and condensate pan (located above the heat exchanger area) every 2 to 4 years.

-Clean the blower's fan blades (located in the lower plenum).

-Clean every supply and return register and straighten out their fins.

PROFESSIONAL MAINTENANCE

You should have a professional HVAC technician service your heat pump every year. The technician should be:

-Inspecting ducts, filters, blower, and indoor coil for dirt build-up and other obstructions.

-Diagnose and seal any duct leakage.

-Verify adequate airflow by measurement.

-Verify correct refrigerant charge by measurement.

-Check for any refrigerant leaks.

-Inspect electric terminals, and if necessary, clean and tighten connections, and apply a nonconductive coating.

-Lubricate motors, and inspect belts for tightness and wear.

-Verify correct electric control, making sure that heating is locked out when the thermostat calls for cooling and vice versa.

-Verify correct thermostat operation.

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE

Motorized equipment, like your heating system, requires regular adjustments, burner cleaning, parts replacement, repairs, venting inspection, and other checks. Licensed experts know your equipment and the necessary codes to follow. Your heating contractor can help make your equipment operate with peak efficiency, last longer, and save you money year after year. Having an annual service plan in place will also guarantee you an on-call, 24 hour a day service technician to arrive at your house in case of a heating emergency.

HEARTH APPLIANCES

Some homes have wood-burning stoves, pellot-burning stoves, or fireplaces. While a stove or fireplace can warm a building, it cannot be counted on to provide continuous heat. All of these systems require that the fuel be replenished on an ongoing basis. While this may suit a quiet getaway weekend in the Massachusetts country, it is seldom a match with modern lifestyles. Only depend upon a wood-burning stove, pellot-burning stove, or fireplace as a supplemental source of heat.

It is best to burn only seasoned wood for maximum heat release, less creosote buildup, and economy. Avoid burning green (unseasoned) wood which may contain up to 50% of its weight in moisture and needs to be burned off before any heat can reach your house.

Stovepipes and chimney flues should be inspected by a chimney professional each year before you use your stove. They should check for all signs of deterioration such as cracked flue liners, leaks, warping, baffle gaps, broken or missing bricks, heavy creosote deposits, bird nests and other foreign material. Thoroughly clean the flue and stovepipe of any soot and other residues. The stovepipe and chimney should be inspected frequently during the heating season for creosote buildup. If you use an air-tight stove, check the stovepipe at least once a month. Your chimney cleaning schedule will depend on how frequently your stove is used and how it is operated.

Lead - What is it?

Lead has been mined, smelted, and compounded for thousands of years. Lead is a neurotoxin metallic element that was historically used in paint, gasoline and plumbing materials for many years. Lead was easy to work with for a variety of purposes, which is why mining and smelting of lead has caused millions of tons to be spread into our environment. Lead poisoning occurs only when too much lead accumulates in the body.

Generally, lead poisoning occurs slowly, resulting from the gradual accumulation of lead in bone and tissue after repeated exposure. However, it is important to note that young children absorb 50% of a lead ingestion while adults absorb only 10%. Pregnant women should be especially cautious of lead exposure. The presence of lead dust can cause difficulties during pregnancy. Lead enters the bloodstream and can pass the placental barrier from the mother to the unborn child. The fetus can then be poisoned before birth.

Lead is very dangerous for children under the age of six because it is absorbed more readily into their blood and stored more easily in their bones and internal organs. Lead can be absorbed by the body, primarily through the lungs and stomach. If a child is overexposed to lead it can cause disastrous consequences including the possibility of irreversible brain and nervous system damage. Lead poisoned infants, children, and fetuses can suffer from permanent learning disabilities, behavioral problems, hearing problems, developmental delays, reduced hand-eye coordination and other serious health conditions. Even children who appear healthy can have lead poisoning. If you think your child or other family members may be at risk, contact your physician or local health department for testing, immediately.

WHERE CAN LEAD BE FOUND?

DRINKING WATER - is a potential source of lead. This is usually from lead in solder, fixtures and lead piping in the home. Some water pipes in homes built before the 1930's were made of lead, especially the main water pipe that penetrates the foundation. In both old and new homes, lead solder was also used in copper piping. Both of these can be a source of lead in your drinking water. I will be inspecting all visible piping within the building and any lead piping that is found, will absolutely be noted and highlighted in the PLUMBING section of your inspection report.

A variety of lead pipes

HOUSE PAINTS - Most houses built prior to World War II had lead-based paint applied to the interior or exterior surfaces. It was used until 1978, when it was banned. Some of these paints still remain inside older homes and may be particularly hazardous if in poor condition (chipped or peeling) or if disturbed by sanding or abrasion (creating lead dust).

Lead was used in paint because it lasted forever in the environment and never broke down into a harmless substance. The amount of lead in paint was reduced in 1950 and further reduced again in 1978. Houses built before 1950 are very likely to contain lead paint while houses built after 1950 will have less lead in the paint. House paints sold today have very low levels of lead.

Lead paint that needs immediate attention

Lead dust is released from chipping and peeling paint; home renovation projects that disturb lead paint; and lead paint ground up by friction, such as on window sashes, porch floors, etc. Because children naturally engage in hand-to-mouth activities, they are more likely to accidentally ingest lead.Over many years, painted surfaces usually crumble into household dust. This dust clings to toys, fingers and other objects that children normally put into their mouths. This is the most common way lead gets into your child's system.

Children also get dangerous lead levels into their bodies by chewing on lead painted surfaces. Some young children even eat paint chips that are peeling or chipping. The taste is what makes them come back for more. Believe it or not, Lead paint taste sweet, so children and pets are attracted to the taste of lead paint. In accordance with Massachusetts law, any unit or single family home with an occupant who is less than six years old must be deleaded.

TESTING FOR LEAD PAINT

To determine the presence of lead in paint, dust, water, and soil is best done by trained professionals. Massachusetts requires all lead inspectors to be state-certified.

Professional testing companies use three basic methods to measure lead in paint:

1) X-ray fluorescence (XRF) uses portable detectors that X-ray a painted surface to measure the amount of lead in all the layers of paint. This type of testing is done in the home and disturbs little, if any, paint.

2)Laboratory testing of paint samples involves removing samples of paint from each surface to be tested, usually from an area of about two square inches. Samples are sent to laboratories for analysis. This method leaves a bare spot on each surface tested.

3)Spot checks are performed with swabs. Swabs do not tell you how much lead is present and their reliability at detecting low levels of lead has not been determined. Professional testing for lead in paint is highly recommended. If you are seeking a professional lead inspection in order to obtain a Certificate stating that a specific home is free of Lead paint, I do not issue lead Certificates. You must contact a Lead Abatement company from your area.

Infrared electrical inspections are completely safe, fast, and very reliable. These inspections are non contact and can be performed at any time of the day without disturbing the occupants or shutting down the electrical supply to your home.

Nearly everything that transmits electricity will get very hot before it finally fails. A cost effective power management is critical to maintaining the reliability of the electrical system throughout your home before it causes a fire. A deficient connection between electrical components can result in resistance which will manifest in an apparent temperature elevation when compared to similar types of connections under similar load conditions. Electrical hot spots can be identified in many areas throughout your home, which include faulty wiring, overloads at electrical connections and components throughout your home, overloaded or undersized circuits, defective circuit breakers that are in need of immediate replacement, hot branch wiring, defective wall switches and outlets, as well as any loose overheating connections, especially with any aluminum wiring connections.

I will safely scan all electrical equipment in and around your home, looking for thermal patterns that indicate a heating anomaly. Most of your electrical connections will always appear as "Hot" areas, but the more severe heating anomalies will be detected with infrared imaging and this fire issue will be brought to your attention immediately. I will then prepare a detailed infrared electrical report that will include both thermal and digital images in a side by side comparison format. Your report will detail the absolute temperature measurements along with outlining the severity of the anomaly and will include recommendations to have any dangerous situations corrected.

An undetected electrical weakness in your home can lead to deadly house fires and a catastrophic failure of your electrical system. For the safety of you and your family, I recommend you have your entire electrical system thermally scanned on an annual basis.

This panel is absolutely fine, but the IR image (on the right) is detecting 3 hot spots. Only an experienced Thermographer will be able to properly interpret those three hot spots as normal temperatures for AFCI breakers.

Now...we've got issues

One very important finding with thermal imaging would be wood boring insect infestations. It's crucial in locating any hidden Termite or Carpenter Ant damage much sooner than later. Colonies can become so catastrophic and cause expensive structural damage to your home without you even knowing it. A small termite colony can form and cause extensive damage to a building in as little as six weeks, so vigilance plays an important role in preventing these types of infestations.

When Termites or Carpenter Ants do invade buildings, the normal heat patterns of concealed structural members (inside walls and floors) are changed causing the damaged areas to be detected with infrared. Basically, the density of the wood changes due to the wood members being destroyed. The damaged wood members will emit a slightly different temperature than the solid wood members. This difference in temperature is quite obvious and visible to the trained eye with thermal imaging.

My thermal imaging camera records this change in heat patterns and will indicate the exact location of the Wood Boring Insect infestation (See images below). The color image will show hot spots as red or yellow and cold spots as blue or purple and these heat patterns can indicate Wood Boring Insect infestations if interpreted correctly. My technology allows for early detection of a termite problem, and eradication could proceed before the damage is too great, thus saving the owner thousands of dollars in repairs at some future date.

Visually, this wall looks great, but infrared detects Termite Activity.

Existing homeowners can also use my thermal imaging services so that they are not over-charged by exterminators who do not accurately identify the Termite or Carpenter Ant problems for subsequent treatment. There are instances where the concealed Wood Boring Insect damage is minor but the exterminator is telling you the opposite or is simply guessing. Infrared imaging can verify the extent of the insect damage.

You may be wondering, "How can a camera detect concealed termite colonies"? Well, let's take Termites for example. When termites do invade buildings, their presence alters the normal heat patterns of the floors and walls. Termites are cold-blooded creatures, but their metabolic processes will produce heat. Termites also work to control their thermal environment by building moist mud tunnels, which appear as cool spots in the wall cavities. These cool spots and any structural damage are quite visible during a typical thermal scan. Thermal imaging is an environmentally friendly, limited chemical and radiation option. Using very specific information about the pests' location, I am able to determine the most effective location for placing the fumigation chemicals. This protects the homeowner and the environment. After the initial fumigation is completed, thermal imaging can be used again to follow-up on eradication efforts, and help to ensure that termite infestation is nothing but a bad memory.

My inspection results will be captured and then documented into a professional report, providing you with tangible proof of all my wood boring insect findings.

http://www.massinfrared.com

Radiant heating systems are installed in many floors and ceilings of homes and businesses throughout Massachusetts. The continuous supply pipes for these systems are not visible and are unable to be monitored (on a continuing basis) in order to ensure that the piping is always functioning properly and not leaking. Something as important as (concealed) radiant heating should always be monitored on an annual basis. An unknown radiant heating system leak can waste energy and cause major property damage if not repaired in a timely manner. Locating the exact area of a leaking hot water pipe which is buried under a concrete slab can be quite time consuming. It can take quite the physical process of tearing up or breaking up big areas of the flooring in order to locate the leak site. If the location of a leak is not found quickly and accurately, floors can often wind up becoming severely damaged and very costly to repair. I'm finding that many of the older style steel and copper floor pipes are now failing and causing serious damage to structures without anyone even knowing about this concealed defect until the moisture issue becomes quite obvious or until I show up with my infrared camera.

I will always have a convenient and very simple solution for locating and monitoring all those hidden radiant heating pipes. My infrared (thermal imaging) camera detects differentiating thermal patterns of buried heating pipes which enables me to pinpoint the exact piping locations and monitor for concealed leaks under any floor or ceiling material. My infrared imaging camera is so sensitive that I'm able to map out an entire radiant heat system (no matter what size it is; revealing where all the tubing is located within your floor or ceiling. Not only am I able to locate the piping, I'm also able to detect the temperature of the tubing itself, and locate any hidden leaks that may be yet undetected.

If you plan on renovating or remodeling on top of or in proximity of a radiant heating system, I highly recommend having your radiant piping completely examined and have all the buried pipes clearly marked out before you undertake any construction work. Without knowing where those radiant pipes are located, construction around a radiant area could become very expensive if one of those pipes all of the sudden becomes punctured.

I've had many radiant inspections where I've detected irregular patterns in the embedded radiant lines with improper spacing between the pipes themselves (See image below). These particular pipes were not properly secured in place while the mortar was being poured over them, which caused them to be pushed out of position, permanently. It's always nice to know exactly where those radiant pipes are laid and if they are all spaced out in a straight sequence. There are also instances where radiant heat coils can be close enough to some surfaces that you could end up driving a drill bit or hardware right through one of those pipes. That would cause you down time and exorbitant expenses by having the system shut down and then paying contractors to jack hammer a good portion of the floor in order to access and repair the leak that would have never happened in the first place if you hired me to map the entire radiant heating system.

NOTE THE IMPERFECTIONS IN THIS RADIANT PIPING

Have your radiant heating pipes marked out today. Visit my website at http://www.massinfrared.com

Moisture is the leading cause of costly building upgrades today. Scanning interior surfaces of your building can reveal excess moisture due to roof leaks, plumbing leaks, moisture entering your building at wall penetrations, leaks around windows and doors, locating hidden dampness under resilient flooring, and many other susceptible areas throughout your home.

Moisture on most building materials can easily destroy the structural integrity of a building and nurture Mold within days. The first step in any moisture problem remediation is to quickly and accurately locate and remove all sources of moisture in order to prevent wood rot and Mold. I'll be able to instantly detect the ultimate source and exact location of any moisture entry area with little or no physical dis-assembly of the premises and minimal disturbance of anyone living in the home. This prevents building owners from ripping out entire walls and ceilings in order to pinpoint a problem area or to repair a leak somewhere inside the surface.